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Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda
20/02/2017
Face to Face with Giants: My Journey to Virunga, Rwanda
In February 2017, YY and I ventured into the heart of Rwanda, drawn by Nelis’s passionate persuasion during our migration trip. After all Nelis is known as the Gorilla Man. No one has done more gorilla hikes than he has. Indeed on my second trip there in 2023, we celebrated his 100th hikes. For YY, it wasn’t the first encounter with gorillas—but for me, it was a long-awaited dream.
Our journey began in Kigali, where we visited the Genocide Memorial Museum. The harrowing history of Rwanda—where 800,000 Tutsis were slaughtered in just 100 days—left a deep impression. The museum was sobering, a stark reminder of the devastating consequences of racial division. Malaysia came to mind.
After a day in Kigali, we drove toward Volcanoes National Park, spreading over western Rwanda and eastern Congo. We had booked three gorilla treks and one to see golden monkeys. The Rwandan trekking system was impressively organized. Each hike was led by experienced rangers who guided us to the gorilla families. Once found, we were granted a precious hour to photograph and observe them before retreating.
YY, claiming limited mobility, was stretchered up by four porters—an arrangement that made the hikes manageable. I personally relished the treks. On my very first hike, two baby gorillas brushed past me, playful and fearless. But it was the second hike that etched itself into my soul. Rain began to fall as we reached the gorillas, and we sought shelter under a massive tree—only to find the gorilla family had done the same. We huddled together, so close I could smell their musky scent. After some 10-15 minutes, a teenage gorilla arrived late and gently opened his arms to shield his younger sibling from the rain. It was profoundly human.
The golden monkey hike, however, was less poetic—stinging nettles made it a painful affair. But nothing could overshadow the magic of meeting the gorillas. To this day, it remains my most treasured wildlife encounter.
