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Masai Mara National Park, Kenya
29/08/2016
Masai Mara 2016: Dust, Drama, and Diva Wildebeests
Masai Mara—where the earth rumbles, the skies stretch endlessly and wildebeests stage the most dramatic migration known to wildlife. It was August 2016 and YY got a young Nelis Wolmarans to guide us. My first of many trips with my favourite safari guide. It is my first trip to Kenya, this time armed with longer lenses and a full frame camera. My mission? Capture the legendary river crossings in all their chaotic glory. But the wildebeests had other plans.
For the first five days, they teased us. They’d gather at the riverbank like nervous actors before a big scene, pacing, whispering, waiting for the herd to build. Then—just as the tension peaked—they’d turn away. Why? Because someone coughed. Or maybe a vehicle door slammed. These animals are the divas of the savannah and human noise is their cue to cancel the show. At some crossings, over 50 vehicles lined along the banks and tourists holding their breath.
Eventually the wildebeests decided the audience was worthy. When they charged, it was pure magic. We were treated to the spectacle of a theatre show – the chaos of the migration, where the unstoppable momentum and pounding stomp are accompanied by the grunt moans and honks of the animals. Not to mention the cloud of dust as wildebeests surge forward towards the river. During one of the crossings, to get a better angle, I stood atop our open vehicle, like a conductor at nature’s wildest symphony.
Beyond the migration, the Mara offered its usual cast of characters—lions lounging like royalty, cheetahs on the prowl and elephants with a quiet wisdom in their eyes.
After 12 unforgettable days at Governor’s Camp and Naibor Camp @ Masai Mara, we flew to Tortilis Camp, Amboseli, chasing the dream of photographing the long trunk elephants against the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro. But Kilimanjaro was feeling shy, cloaked in clouds. Still, the elephants—massive, majestic and beautifully wrinkled—didn’t disappoint.
Of the three camps, the tent at Naibor stood out. It was the first time I experienced bucket shower. It was fun to have the guys bringing hot water in pails for the shower and to have to quickly wash up before the hot water runs out. More interestingly the tent that we stayed was next to a river and by a hippo trail where they come out at night to feed on the vegetation. I still remembered the first night when the hippos scratched their bodies against the tent as they walked past. I thought they were going to fall over my tent. Fortunately they were very good pedestrians.
Wildlife photography isn’t just about capturing moments. It’s about waiting, watching and laughing at the unpredictability of nature. And sometimes, it’s about standing on a vehicle roof, covered in dust, grinning like a fool as wildebeests thunder past.
