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Finland
29/08/2017
From Brown Bears to Puffins: A Nordic Wildlife Quest
This summer, I embarked on a private wildlife photography trip through Finland and into Vardø, Norway, with familiar faces—YY, Art and Christa, my companions from my very first safari. YY had arranged for Jari Peltomäki, a renowned Finnish birder and photographer, to guide us. Our mission: to photograph brown bears and wolverines, the latter of which I had assumed was a fictional creature from movies.
We drove north from Helsinki, staying at camps in Lieksa, Suomussalmi, and Kuusamo. Many nights were spent in cramped, unhygienic huts—some so flimsy I feared a curious bear might topple them. I later learned that some travelers had fed the bears, encouraging them to approach the huts in search of more. The bears were lured with honey and food by the camp owners, which felt more like baiting than true wildlife observation.
After several nights, we moved to the second camp to photograph wolverines—yes, they do exist. But again, the experience felt staged. The huts remained subpar and the animals were drawn in with food. For a country as developed as Finland, the accommodations were surprisingly poor.
At the third camp, there were some bigger shelter which can accommodate up to 8 photographers. This was definitely more comfortable.
Our final leg took us to Vardø, Norway, where we boarded a ferry to a remote island teeming with puffins and seabirds. The long summer days stretched endlessly, offering golden light and dramatic skies. It was a visual feast, but by then, the fatigue had set in.
Would I do it again? No. While the company was excellent and the wildlife captivating, the artificial setups and uncomfortable conditions dulled the magic. Still, it was a journey worth documenting—for the stories, the shots, and the lessons learned.
